There are fourteen mountains in the world above 8000 metres and at 8156 metres above sea level Mt Manaslu is the 8th highest. Manaslu translates to ‘mountain of spirit’ in Sanskrit and is situated in the west-central part of Nepal. In August this year a team of eight personnel, seven Royal Engineers and one from the Royal Army Medical Corps embarked on an Expedition to climb it.
The primary aim of the project was to climb Manaslu and provide the less experienced members of the team with high altitude mountaineering experience with a view to them leading similar expeditions in the future - an expedition to Peru is already being planned for next year.
An advance party arrived in Kathmandu a few days before the main team to sort out freight and the purchase of supplementary foodstuffs for base camp. When the rest of the team arrived we spent 3 days preparing individual clothing and equipment kindly hosted by British Gurkhas Nepal before starting our journey to Manaslu base camp.
The trek took us through some fantastic terrain following the river Budhi Gandaki for the most part as we gradually ascended to the village of Samagoan. The seven day trek started in tropical climate and finished in the more temperate climate of Samagoan where we acclimatised before ascending to base camp at 4850 meters.
The journey to base camp takes approximately four hours and to acclimate effectively one has to go as slow as possible which is easier said than done. We all arrived safely and a little tired both from the physical exertion and the altitude. When we arrived we prepared our personal and group living spaces that would be home for up to 40 days.
The next few weeks saw us gradually lay siege to the mountain. With the help of four Sherpas we gradually moved all of our equipment and food onto the mountain in four camps between 5200m and 7200m above sea level ready for a summit attempt which for us started on 4th Oct with a night in camp 1. Whilst in camp 1 an unexpected storm brought a significant amount of snow and we decided to stay for 24 hours to let the mountain settle. The Sherpa team was holding in Camp 2 and a large avalanche stopped 5 metres from their tent during the night.
The next few days saw us open the route together up to Camp 3 by re-fixing parts of the fixed ropes and pulling the existing ropes out of the deep snow. All the while treading carefully not to set an avalanche off which was highly possible after the heavy snows. The team were going well and poised to summit but ultimately we were beaten back just short of Camp 4. Sadly the fixed ropes essential to our safe ascent had vanished under an avalanche.
In summary, here are the words from a team member reflecting on the day that was not to be,
“Picture the scene; we are ascending strongly from camp 3 (6900m) on steep slope about 400m in height. The wind is blowing from left to right and is strong enough to blow you off your feet. We are carrying all of our equipment to survive in camp 4 before setting out for the summit. The oxygen system was working well and really made a difference. We got to within about 250m of Camp 4 to find the fixed ropes absent! There was no going on in such high winds without the fixed ropes so the only sensible decision was to turn around.
The views were breath taking, literally on top of the world. I felt strong with my physical preparation (some 7 months) paying off and that makes the outcome a little harder to take. To have given so much physically, get so close and not summit may seem cruel but any mountaineer will acknowledge that this is the way it goes in the great outdoors. Accept fate; it just wasn't meant to be. That we tried at all in such testing conditions is testimony to each and every one of us. We should be humble enough to allow ourselves that much.”
